Les Halles.......The epitome of traditional French cuisine.

One by one and week by week we are slowing crossing places off our “must go” list of restaurants in New York City. Friday night we were able to cross off a huge Matzah ball by finally dining at the legendary French Brasserie, Les Halles. Known more popularly for its superstar chef Anthony Bourdain whose career has catapulted since putting Les Halles on the map, the joint still puts on an exceptional French bistro experience (even when he’s not in the kitchen). This place was buzzing with authentic Parisian flare, from the enormous faded white light bulbs, to the old fashioned French advertisements, to the tableside preparation of freshly made steak tartare, this place had it all. In addition to the great food, I was lucky enough to be joined by two other avid “foodies”; my favorite dining partner Hillary and my roommate Matt both who share the same passion with food as I do. All three of us had wanted to try Les Halles for quite some time, so we went in with very high expectations.

APPETIZERS

Escargots

Six eloquently placed baby snails smothered in garlic and butter…..is there anything better? Honestly? I would still consider myself an amateur when it comes to Escargot, but nevertheless, these slimy gross little creatures were damn tasty. Matt walked into Les Halles an Escargot virgin and left without his E-Card. Watching his first experience was like watching an animal planet special on Bears letting their cubs hunt in the wild for the first time.

Saumon D’Ecosse Fumé

This dish reminded me of being home in Lower Merion eating brunch at my synagogue with all the old Jews. Four healthy slivers of Scottish Smoked Salmon (Lox for us Jews) served with sliced onions, sour cream, lettuce and a homemade potato pancake. The lox was thinly sliced, nicely salted and up to my usual lox standards for a Sunday morning brunch delicacy. However, the potato pancake was a bland and not crispy like my Mom’s Latkes that I have become so accustomed to over the years. This dish was my least favorite of the night, because it lacked in the “WOW” department. I would not order it again; why come to a top notch, well-known, French bistro to get a fancified version of bagels and lox.

Steak Tartare

Prepared tableside with all the necessary fixings: onions, capers, anchovies, hot sauce, mustard, garlic, salt & pepper and an egg. Our waitress rolled out a little cart and made the sauce right in front of our eyes. Her hand was like a human blender, moving so quickly it started to become blurry. Not sure if she was that fast or it was the red wine was kicking in. If I had to wager, I bet she gives a mean hand job…but back to the tartare. Served on the plate was a huge portion of raw Grade-A meat, more than enough for an appetizer portion. Although the mixings proved to be a bit overpowering, this was an enjoyable starter.

ENTREES

Filet De Boeuf Béarnaise

The epitome of traditional French cuisine. To me, there was no other option on the menu. I went back and forth in my head between a few dishes, but eventually I came to my senses. Advice: always go with your gut. A perfect piece of filet served with a side of homemade béarnaise sauce and pommes frites (French fries). The steak was cooked to perfection, medium rare, just how I like it. No special seasoning other than salt and pepper, not dressed up in butter or oil like some steakhouses like to do. The meat was soft and so easy to cut through. Every bite just melted away in my mouth. As the meal progressed, I began rationing off portions of the steak in fear that it would soon be gone. I cherished every single morsel of this steak, leaving nothing to waste. The highlight dish of the evening.

Demi Canard Rôti, Sauce Grenadeet Gratin de Navet

(½ roasted duck, pomegranate sauce, turnip & potato gratin)

I was coaxed into the duck, but I went willingly. I love duck- so my expectations were high- and when my boyfriend suggested we split the two items that he wanted, choosing to receive the “better” of the two as his main, I did not argue. Believing there was no way this French Bistro could mess up a classical French Dish- I was confident in my decision; I take full responsibility for this dish’s presence on our table. The flavors were all there- it wasn’t too sweet and flavor wise, I was beyond pleased. However, as any duck eater knows- the skin must be crispy and the fat mostly melted away (or easily scrapable). Upon first bite, the dish was… chewy. The skin lacked any crispiness and the fat was thick and not easily removable. The duck must not have been cooked long enough or in the proper way. Disappointment.

All in all, I loved everything about Les Halles. The service was top notch, the décor was sheek & genuine and the food was outstanding. It’s extremely impressive when three “foodies” can walk into a restaurant expecting greatness after months of anticipation and walk out almost fully satisfied- with the exception of the duck. I was in awe as we left the Park Avenue bistro; I felt like a tourist in a foreign land, begging to have my picture taken outside the place which I will now compare all future dining experiences to.

	Restaurant Review Rating Scale
			Total Points Available
Food	8.5		10
Service	7.5		10
Ambiance	9.5		10
Bang for the Buck	8		10
Overall	9		10
	42.5		50

411 Park Ave S, New York 10016

(Btwn 28th & 29th St)

Phone: (212) 679-4111